by Greg Fisher

All sailors appreciate the importance of a good start. When combined with excellent boat speed (which we will discuss more in future Racer's Edge articles) good positioning at the start almost always leads to a good finish at the end of the race as well. While it is not unusual to witness the top sailors sometimes popping out from the pack after the starting gun with seemingly a 50 yard lead 50 yards into the race, it is also just as unusual to see them buried at the gun trying to dig out after a miserable start. It is the consistently fine starts, not necessarily the best of the fleet, that lead to great overall finishes in either a regatta or fleet series. Consistent starting comes from following almost a script, or game plan, which makes the whole procedure become almost mechanical. No matter where you determine you should start on the line and no matter what the breeze, your step by step procedure (when combined with proper timing) makes the knack of consistent front row starts race after race more attainable.

What is a Good Start?
A good start simply means you have gotten off the line with such speed and in such a position that you are able to take full advantage of the first shift. It is nice to blast off the line with a good boat length or two lead on the rest of the pack. However, if just one boat hangs on our weather hip, he can pins us in this beautiful position and never allow us to tack to take advantage of this tremendous jump we have on the rest of the fleet.

Where do we Start?
As we know, the race committee's goal is to set the starting line fairly close to perpendicular to the wind. However, as we also know, the wind is nearly always shifting and it is unusual to be able to set a perfectly square line. If the line is fairly short and/or favored by 5 degrees or less, then the advantage of starting closer to the favored end isn't near as great. However, if starting in a 50 boat fleet with the line favored by as much as 15 degrees, taking advantage of the favored end can be imperative. Remember it is the angle of the wind relative to the starting line that determines which end is favored....and unless the course to the first mark is way off and really badly skewed, it is not the course to the first mark. While there are several methods used to determine which end of the line is favored, unless I am sailing on a small lake in a small fleet, I normally use the compass. When the starting line is pretty short and the number of boats small, often times simply heading the boat directly into the wind and noting which end of line the bow is pointing closer to can be effective in determining which end is favored. However, on longer lines with more boats in more extreme conditions (very light or very heavy winds) the compass is much more accurate. With this method, simply take a compass bearing sailing the line and compare it to your head-to-wind reading. If different from 90 degrees (which tells us if the line is square) not only do we know which end is favored but also, by how much. Another benefit is that once the starting line compass bearing is determined, since the committee can't move the line after the 5 minute gun, the actual amount the line is favored can be determined anywhere (and not necessarily near the actual line) and anytime during your final approach.

Start Close to that End...
Once it is determined how favored the line is, we can then determine how close to that end we should start. If the line is only 5 degrees favored it may be necessary only to start in that half of the line. However, if the line is as much as 15-20 degrees favored, starting much closer to the favored end is in order. On the other hand, since it is fairly easy to determine which end of the line is favored, you can expect that obviously much of the fleet will be close to that end trying to get the ideal start. In those conditions, it is important to start close to that end but not so close to be overwhelmed in the traffic and congestion. Instead, start a third of the way up or down from the favored end in clear air with some room, hopefully, to leeward. With some room to accelerate and with clear air, hopefully we will have the ability to take advantage of the first shift and tack if necessary. Gambling on trying to win the #1 position by starting right at the favored end is a gamble and does not often lead to consistent starts.

The Approach
The approach to your chosen starting position is crucial. While many sailors develop a series of different approaches that they draw from for starts in different conditions and for different positions on the line, I find it most beneficial to use one approach for all types of starts in all conditions no matter which end of favored. Since I know how I will set up for each start every time, the only variable becomes the timing. While there are obviously many different approaches to the start, it seems the two most popular are the starboard luffing (where boats lines up on starboard tack several lengths low of the line several minutes before the start) or the port tack approach, which I subscribe to. With the port tack approach you basically approach the fleet on port, a boat length or so below the bulk of the fleet as they line up on starboard. Depending on the size of the boat, the ability of the boat to accelerate, and the wind conditions, the port tack boat finds a hole to tack into usually within the last minute and ten seconds. In some ways, this approach sounds a bit gamey since you are sailing on port tack towards a rather massive group of starboard tackers..... However, remember one of the goals of the starboard tack boats is to develop a hole to leeward (which we will discuss later) which if left open and wide enough, it can easily be taken by the tacking port tack approacher. The common question is, " what to do if there simply aren't any holes to tack into?!" For me, if it is that crowded I wouldn't want to be starting in that congestion anyway. When this crowded, simply sail down the line a bit further until a hole opens up. One of the keys to a successful port tack approach is the final tack into the vacant hole. This tack should be slow with the goal of the boat's final position to be bow to bow with the boat to windward and without much speed. The windward starboard tack boat's defense is to bear off and aim directly at the port tack as he approaches in an attempt to force him to tack earlier. Remember, though, that the starboard tack boat has to give the port tacker room and opportunity to keep clear. His goal is still to end up, once you have completed your tack to leeward of him, well to windward of you in an attempt to maintain his hole to leeward. One of the major differences between the port tack approach and other approaches is that of attitude. Those using the starboard luffing approach are constantly in a mindset of defending their position, while those using the port tack approach are a bit more aggressive in that they are attacking for their position. Again, the point is, to use the approach that suits you best. But be sure to use the same approach for every start so the only variable becomes the timing in when you begin your approach and when you make your final run for the line.

Your Timing
Determine your timing during your pre-start preparation. Determine how long it takes you to sail to the approximate spot on the line where you want to start and leave enough time for the final tack and your final run to the line. With using the port tack approach, I nearly always determine how long it takes to sail from the pin to where I want to tack. I sail back and forth getting a fairly close estimation of this timing and then add another 10 seconds on for a nice slow tack and then the time necessary to carve and defend this new position on the line after our tack to starboard. In smaller boats that accelerate quickly, and in medium to heavy breezes, we may tack as late as 35 seconds before the gun. In slower boats, and especially in light winds, our tack again may be as early as a minute and ten seconds before the start.

Maintain Your Position
Once in position, it is important that you quickly take control of the hole and the boat to windward. This doesn't necessarily demand any kind of an attack or creating a situation that demands the use of a rule book. It simply means maintaining a position for your boat that blocks the windward boat from trimming in and accelerating before you do and therefore closing off your clear air. Try to maintain a position where your bow is just barely ahead of the boat to windward and your boat is just below close hauled with sails luffing in order to maintain this bow out position. A boat width's gap between you and the boat to weather is ideal. Luff up to the close hauled or just above close hauled position only when necessary to narrow the gap between you and the windward boat or to check the windward boat's acceleration. In the last 20 seconds work to stay up off the boat directly to leeward of you in order to develop a hole. This hole will give you some opportunity to sail slightly below close hauled just before the gun in order to accelerate. This hole also provides a buffer between you and the leeward boat.

Distance From the Line
Some sailors make use of line sights to determine exactly how far they are off the line. Ideally, you would take two line sights, one for when you are directly on the line, and one for two boat lengths off. Line up some object on shore through the leeward mark or the committee boat so that you have something to gauge the distance below the line. However, personally I find that in the last 15 seconds, we key most heavily off the two or three boats directly to windward of us. Again, we always do our best to ensure that our bow is just ahead of those boats....almost no matter where they are on the line and no matter when they pull the trigger and begin to accelerate. If they accelerate before us and end up on our wind after the gun, our start is a failure!

Being aggressive in the last 15 seconds before the start. While certainly being over the line early will ruin any start, it is a positive indication that you are pressing the line. I am not suggesting for one minute that you should be reckless and over the line once or twice a regatta....but it is important to know that you are close!

On the other hand, I have had two premature starts that may have cost me good finishes in two major championships. Both situations were nearly identical in that the fleet was being hailed from the committee boat at the weather end while the leeward pin boat was either not calling or not calling loud enough to be heard. Of course, we were close to the leeward end and never hears our number. A good question to ask at the competitor's meeting is, "how premature starters will be called and who will have the ability to call them." If you know that only the weather end will be calling, perhaps it is wise to be a bit more conservative if the leeward end is favored!

Your Teammates Call the Shots!
Crew communication is paramount to a good start. On our boat, we divide up all of the various responsibilities to the point that in the last 15 seconds I am basically steering the boat where and when the crew indicates. On a three man boat, the forward crew will be keeping track of our line sight, or where we are on the line in regards to the boats to windward. He/she has the ability to pull the trigger and tell me to trim if the boats to weather have begun their acceleration. The middle crew, in addition to keeping time, will look backwards for boats that are making a late approach on port or boats that are approaching with speed below and from behind on starboard tack. This constant influx of information makes it much easier for me to concentrate on getting the boat up to speed and in a good spot because I just have to concentrate on imput as to where we are on the line and when we should pull the trigger.

Boat Speed
For the first minute off the start, boat speed is of utmost importance. Fight the urge to point the boat as high as it will go by pinching until the boat is totally up to full speed. In fact, this is one of the common mistakes that many sailors make. If the boat is not given the time to accelerate by trimming the sails in tight to a full close hauled/pointing position in that last ten seconds, the boat, instead of accelerating forward, will load up and slide sideways. Obviously dropping away from the boat to windward and on top of the boat leeward is exactly the opposite of what we want to achieve!

Don't be Afraid to Bail Out! B Finally, when you do have a bad start, (unfortunately they happen) bail out quickly and get your air clear. Again, this is where crew communication comes in and often it is easy to tell as early as 15-20 seconds before the gun if you are in trouble. Maybe you have gotten too close to the boat to leeward or the boat to windward already has a jump that you can't close up. When this happens, quick thinking and quick communication from your crew in finding a new lane to tack into and bail out of is most helpful.

Good Luck and Good Starting!

This article has been published in the Racer's Edge Magazine.

"OK, Mark, we're up slightly on this tack going the same speed and point as Folkman who is four lengths to leeward dead abeam. Looks like we are crossing the rest of the fleet ahead and to leeward, the guys on our hip are caving." Let's keep going this way until Folkman tacks and then we can face him all the way in on the starboard layline to the mark."

That was our discussion aboard Mark Golison's "Bandini Mountain" during the first beat of the last race of the 1999 Cal 20 Class Championships held August 5-8 at Alamitos Bay Yacht Club in Long Beach, CA. The regatta had all come down to this, the final race. Folkman made the next move and tacked 3-4 boatlengths below the starboard layline. We promptly applied a tight cover on him causing him to quickly tack back onto port to keep his air clear. At the same time as he tacked, we got a nice right puff and looked slightly overstood for the weather mark. Abandoning what we all learned in Match Racing 101 (always cover, no matter what) we elected to stay on starboard. As soon as Folkman tacked back onto starboard our nice righty evaporated and with us barely laying the mark. This forced us to sail high and slow and Folkman rapidly closed the gap from behind. We rounded the weather mark just in front of him and the rest as they say is history. Folkman did a nice job of getting on our breeze downwind and slowed us enough that the fleet caught up from behind. The traffic caused us to round the wrong gate mark to start the second beat and left us heading the wrong way in tons of traffic. A well deserved third Class Championship for Mark Folkman and his crew of Jeff Johnson and Kurt Mayol!

The Cal 20 Class is a great mix of people and personalities. Young and old are attracted to this classic late 60's Bill Lapworth design. The boat which weighs in at 2000-plus pounds places a exceptional premium on good tactics as the boats all go very similar speeds. Sailing with Mark we found that windshifts of as little as three degrees were significant.

Sailors in the class are a mixture of "rock stars" and weekend warriors. Many ex-collegiate sailors have gone through the Cal 20 class to hone their tactical skills and have been expertly supported, coached and often beaten by the "old timers". The emphasis is on having fun above all and most of the sailors are very civil, going out of their way to avoid tacking on one another (except towards the end of a regatta when the places really count).

About 2500 of these boats have been built. Most were built by the now defunct Jensen Marine in Costa Mesa, CA. There was also a licensed builder in Vancouver, B.C. which now boasts a strong local fleet. Race ready, "turbo charged" Cal 20 can be bought for around $10,000, while fixer uppers can be had for as little as $1500.00. The class is primarily a West Coast class although there are pockets of activity all over the country.

Based on the results from this year's class Championship, North Sails is the leading sailmaker for the class. While we do not have the largest market share in the class our sails have produced exceptional results for our customers. Mark Folkman used a brand new North main to win the regatta. Mark Golison, who I crewed for, used a North main a jib we built for him last season (lightly used since then) and Doug Mclean used a brand new main and jib to finish third overall. A North sweep of the top three!

Results:

Top Ten Gold Division (26 boats) 44 boat in Gold and Silver fleets combined:

1st	Mark Folkman	(North Main)
2nd	Mark Golison	(North Main and Jib)
3rd	Doug Mclean	(North Main and Jib)
4th	Chuck Clay
5th	Hank Schofield
6th	Ron Wood
7th	Walter Johnson	(North Main and Jib)
8th	Bruce Golison	(North Main and Jib)
9th	Mike Burch
10th	Bill Schopp

Photos:

1 - Mark Golison 2nd Place 1999 Cal 20 Class Championships
2 - Mark Folkman #415 Cal 20 Class Champion

PENTEX PROOF
by Bill Fortenberry

As we near the end of the summer sailing season, the verdict is in on the performance of the new Pentex Genoa's for the J24 class. Customers across the country are reporting fantastic results from their new sails. Pentex Genoa's have won every major championship this year.

Alf Merchant from Lake George, New York was one of the first to receive a new Pentex Genoa. After a full season of aggressive campaigning Alf reports the sail is "Holding up exceptional well" and that with at least 25 races, 2 weekend regattas and racing 3 nights a week the sail has "No visible wear". "I especially like the new Lead Indicator, referring to the stripe on the clew to help set the lead car.

After receiving a new Pentex Genoa mid season, Anne Lane from Jamestown, RI wrote "We had 2 firsts in our club races and I was first around the windward mark in Fleet 50! That's a first time for us! Thanks for your help and new sail."

Britt Hughes was fast out of the bag winning the District 3 Championship with an impressive string of first place finishes. Britt commented "We seemed to point very high with at least equal speed."

North Sails One Design introduced the new Pentex Genoa's by placing 1,2,3 at the 1999 Midwinter Championships. For more information on J/24 sails, click here!

We would like to take this opportunity to congratulate these brilliant sailors for their achievements!
Different boats, different conditions ...
Only one thing in common:
They all use NORTH sails!

North Sails 1st, 2nd at the 1999 Star Worlds! Fore more information on North Star sails contact: Eric Doyle Vince Brun For more information on the Star Worlds, visit the event web site.

STAR WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP Eric Doyle and Tom Olsen won this year's Star Worlds by two points over Ross Macdonald and Kai Bjorn of Canada. There were 129 boats sailing in the regatta. Both teams were powered with the latest North Star designs. The word from Punta Ala is that Eric and Ross were the fastest teams on the water! We're really proud of Eric and Ross who have worked with us for more than 5 years developing the World's Fastest Star sails. FYI, Eric and Tom also won the Star North Americans in August.

SNIPE ITALIAN NATIONALS 1st Place Enrico Solerio Franco Solerio They used North AP-3 mainsail and BR-1S mylar jib! For more information on North Snipe sails, click here

MOBJACK NATIONALS 1st Place Mark Arnold Matt Frank 3rd Place Joe Kubinec Tracy Kubinec They used North Sails!

C.O.R.K. Laser II - 1st Place Brian Haines and Lauren Maxan Laser Youth - 1st Place Andrew Campbell Laser Radial - 2nd Place Andrew Driscoll

IYLA ASSOCIATION SCOW CHAMPIONSHIP
A SCOW - 18 boats One of the most exciting class events were the big 38' A Scows. 18 of the giant scows sailed six races on Big Spirit Lake. The first and last races being held with heavy air winds. The highlight of this regatta besides the tight racing was on the last day when the A Scows were clocked at 35 plus m.p.h. going downwind with their massive asymmetric spinnakers. Many of the veterans and many rookie A Scow sailors claimed the day as their fastest sailing experience ever. Teams for 1st-4th were using North Sails.	1st Place Robbie Evans "M100" 2nd Place John Porter "Full Throttle" 3rd Place Buddy Melges I-1 "Kanza"
M 16 - 20 boats In the M16 class the all new version of the M16 from Melges Boat Works made it's debut with Andy Burdick at the helm. Andy won five of the six races held and had a points victory margin of 46.4 points over 2nd place. North Sails finished 1st, 3rd and 5th in this event.	1st Place Andy Burdick
MC Scow - 43 boats Scott Slocum in his new 99 Melges dominated the event. Scott also finished second at this year's National Championship where he won three races at that event. North Sails had the top Master, Grand Master, 2nd Amateur, Top Junior and Top Woman. Due to light airs the MC Scows only had four of their scheduled six races.	1st Place Scott Slocum
C Scow - 63 boats The C Scow Class this year was the biggest of all the classes with 63 boats on the line. All six races were completed with winds ranging from light to heavy. North Sails were on board seven of the top ten finishers at this years event.	1st Place David Strothman "M10" 2nd Place Chris Jewett "UM7"
E Scow - 48 boats The E Scow Class saw very tight racing and some exciting thrills and spills. Big winds the first day took their tolls on even some of the heavy weights like Brian Porter and Invite Champ Bill Allen. Swimming was a big part of this windy series for many teams. This opened the door for Andy Burdick who sailed a very consistent series with a 2-4-8-2 series to win the event. North Sails dominated the 48 boat event with sails on board the first eight teams.	1st Place Andy Burdick

WESTERN MICHIGAN YACHTING ASSOCIATION CHAMPIONSHIP C Scows - 26 Boats - 5 races Charlie Harrett 1st place using both North I-1 and Harecut mainsails MC Scows - 61 boats - 5 races Peter Fox 1st using a North Masters Mainsail Brien Fox 2nd using a North Masters Mainsail Cam McNeil - Top Junior using a North Mainsail Kelly Reese - Top Female using a North Masters Mainsail Gary Verplank - Top Master using a North Big Boy Mainsail E Scows - 15 boats - 4 races Doug McNeil 1st Place Top eight boats had North E Scow Sails